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Fall Forward

Designers and models conspired to put the glamour back into fashion week. There’s nothing quite like a ‘90s supermodel or a stellar front row to get folks excited about fashion week again. While even some of the most established brands have downsized to more casual presentations in smaller show spaces, Tom Ford kicked things off at the mammoth Park Avenue Armory with a heavy dose of the same jewel-tone fur, satin, and velvet Me Decade glamour that has been his calling card since his earlier days at Gucci and YSL. And after several seasons of sensible block heels and single-soled pumps, Ford’s crystal-encrusted, Disco-ready platforms were a welcome arrival.

Among emerging talents, Batsheva Hay’s Punk-meets-Prairie aesthetic continues to gather steam and the designer upped the ante this season with a star-studded cast that included Christina Ricci, Veronica Webb and Courtney Love. Hay paid tribute to love by having models read aloud lyrics from Love’s band, Hole. So touched was Love by the gesture, she was moved to tears. On the more refined side, Brandon Maxwell delivered the perfect wardrobe—and accessory—for the modern lady who lunches: refined, waist-accentuating midi-length pencil skirts and palazzo trousers coupled with feminine silk blouses. The piece de resistance: a clear acrylic briefcase with a malachite-print monogrammed place setting for one.

Even the most jaded of guests at Longchamp’s second ever ready-to-wear presentation were left slack-jawed when none other than Kate Moss took to the front row. While creative director Sophie Delafontaine told the press that the collection was a blend of “Parisian silhouettes and New York sensibility” some of the more rock and roll leather mini dresses and boho scarf-neck blouses called to mind Moss’s enviable vintage archive.This season’s wild card? Tomoko Koizumi, a (until now) relatively unknown Japanese costume designer whose unrestrained, rainbow ruffled tulle-filled debut was pure joy and quite possibly the most Instagrammed show of the week. And what better note to end on than Christy Turlington, who if you can believe turned 50 last month, closing Marc Jacobs and looking every bit the rare bird in a full skirted black dress festooned with feathers?

Photos by: Jonas Gustavsson

 

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